Spring Release 2002
2002 An early spring, below-average wind run and persistent damp weather brought a flush of early growth which was particularly welcome for our young vines. Benevolent weather during flowering would have ensured a high level of fruit set and potentially very big crops had it not been for our severe thinning of flowers as well as green pruning at veraison. As a result, our tonnage averaged 2.5 tonnes/acre (38hL/Ha) across most varieties - well below the record-breaking crops experienced through much of the country. Continuing rain and damp humid conditions right through the summer allowed vigorous growth to continue in a season which was like no other we have seen in Martinborough. Overcast weather persisted through this period and although grape development was obviously well advanced, we had considerable concerns as to whether we had had sufficient sunlight to achieve purity and ripeness of flavour expression. In general, summer did not have the temperature highs of our typical years, but the atypical warm nights continued to advance the season at a surprising rate. These warm nights combined with the continuing damp conditions meant disease was always a threat but, thankfully, averted in our vineyards. From February, there was an obvious transition to an alternative weather pattern: once again the typical, reliably dry Martinborough autumn came, and with impeccable timing the vineyards went into drought conditions (with a good level of sunlight) for harvest. Overall we expected (and got) the earliest season on record, with the high heat summation resulting in high sugars, but because peak day temperatures were low the flavours can be expected to be bright, even powerful, and may fall closer in style to those of the cooler years than might be expected. Our viticultural management style farms for direct sunlight onto the fruit, and the mid-season lack of direct sunlight does not seem to have created problems for the final flavours. The availability of all our wines this year is a welcome increase.
- Chardonnay Amaranth 2001
Straw in colour with a rich and nutty nose hinting at grapefruit and with wafts of lemon blossom. The palate is young, bold and vibrant - tasting of lemon, pink grapefruit and white peach, along with toasted hazelnuts, coconut and a grip which suggests that this is a wine with long-term cellaring prospects. It should be drinking well from about 4 or 5 years, but I expect it to be a good prospect well beyond this.
- Dry River Est. Gewurztraminer 2002
This wine is a light green-gold, smelling of jasmine and frangipani blossom, marmalade, honey and fruitcake spice. The palate is full, but with a rich mid-palate showing grapefruit sprinkled with ginger and allspice, bush honey and sandalwood - an elegant floral lift. We enjoy these wines as pre-dinner aperitifs or with cheese, although they are commonly recommended with mildly spiced and rich foods. It should benefit from 2-5 years cellaring; maybe more under good conditions.
- Pinot noir 2001
Like the Chardonnay, this wine shows its vintage: fresh varietal flavours, firm structure, restrained alcohol and accented floral character. The colour is typical for Dry River - a dense ruby with a purple rim, with the nose showing violets, sweet boysenberries, orange peel, cloves and a soft sweet-earth background. The palate is soft and generous, with a silky texture masking firm ripe tannins and with dense flavours - ripe dark berry fruits, Asian five-spice and mocha, with suggestions of black tea and forest floor. It is attractive drinking now (in which case drink at >17ºC.), yet appears to have the structure for longer-term cellaring. It may well be a 7-10 year wine, but review it in about 4 years when its development will be more easily predicted.
- Craighall Late Harvest Riesling 2002
The fruit for this wine was picked around mid-May when the drought was biting hard and the leaves were largely gone. The crop was clean with a sprinkling of botrytis and berry shrivel, and it resulted in a wine analagous in style to a Mosel Spatlese for its clarity of expression, but with greater weight and concentration overall. The wine is straw tinted with a greenish hue, and has a bouquet of lemon and apple blossom, honeydew melon and a touch of talc. The palate is long, persistent and honeyed, tasting of fresh Gravenstein apples, Meyer lemons with hints of fresh apricots, and a crisp mineral finish. These wines typically blossom in about 3 years and can be long-term cellaring prospects.
- Sauvignon Blanc 2002
The colour is a light lemon-gold, and the nose is lively, smelling of passionfruit, guava, lemon sorbet and fresh hay. The palate is also crisp and lively but with weight, texture and a lingering aftertaste. It tastes of Meyer lemons, white peach through subtle pears, and fresh hay with a mineral finish. These wines mellow and become more complex with age, and they can be very long-lived.
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