Spring Release 1996
1996 A warm 1995 spring favoured vine flowering and fruit set to the point that thinning was again necessary later in the season. This was done on most varieties at veraison (January) to ensure a limit of 3T/acre. From January the unusual weather patterns that occurred last harvest prevailed. Frequent short wet southerlies followed by warm humid conditions allowed a build up of botrytis spores and promised a difficult harvest for some varieties. February was 50% wetter than average and promoted dense canopies. Fortunately the following months were a little drier than average, with most vines experiencing at least some drought stress by mid to late April. Natural berry shrivelling (particularly in the Pinots) gave high sugars and good concentration, with flavours from a little earlier in the ripening spectrum than normal, predominating at harvest. Most fruit was harvested with excellent acid balance and flavour; slightly higher than normal pHs (from the dense canopies) and fresh lively flavours which belied the slightly warmer than average season. The drought stress (and shrivelling) later in the season reduced the expected berry sizes and weights, so that most cropping levels were in the lower range: 1.4 - 2.6T/acre. This has given the wines the expected advantage of higher extract and concentrated flavours.
- Chardonnay 1995
According to our favoured practice, this wine was completely barrel fermented in French oak and left on the lees with stirring for 10 months. Most of our 1995 whites have shown 'mineral' characters and these, combined with the extended yeast autolysis for the Chardonnay and varietal fruit, have given layers of flavours in a harmonious wine which is more French than New Zealand in style. A low pH (3.1) should confer long life to the wine, as well as maintaining focused flavours. The nose and palate show citrus, pears and mineral characters with a mealiness or nuttiness, as well as a textured component derived from the lees, as discussed above. The wine may be drunk now, but cellaring will allow considerable further development. In a good cellar, drinking from 3 to 4 years old is ideal: when stored in warmer conditions (as in Auckland), from 2 to 3 years is probably about right.
- Pinot Noir 1995
Sound fruit is essential to the production of good Pinot noir. It is a tribute to our vineyard staff and their meticulous management that the fruit for this wine was harvested in perfect condition in what was quite a difficult vintage. The early season heat gave the ripest fruit tannins we have seen, so 45% whole bunches were used in the ferments - all of which were started as 'wild' or 'natural' ferments to utilise the stalks which are the richest source of these fruit tannins. As for the'95 whites, the Pinot is less varietal-fruit driven and more complex than the '94 wines. The nose reveals hints of mint, cherry, French oak and some herbal/spice notes. The flavours are bright, and the palate is rich, with a big but velvety tannic structure and the herbal/spice flavours associated with this. Although the wine is well structured, the tannins do not dominate the fruit and they will moderate relatively quickly over the next 12 months or so. Martinborough produces world class Pinot noir fruit, and this wine represents a further stylistic step toward the production of alternatives to finest French Burgundies. The wine is drinking well as a young wine and will repay cellaring, providing the storage conditions are appropriate (see The effect of cellaring conditions on your wine).
- Sauvignon Blanc 1996
Sauvignon blanc is one of the varieties most vulnerable to botrytis rot. Much effort with the canopies and with leaf plucking allowed us to harvest ripe fruit even under the difficult conditions of this season. The fruit was harvested in three lots at progressive ripeness and flavours (to promote complexity in the final wine), the final picking being at the end of April. The colour is lemon with hints of green and the bouquet is mostly floral and citrus with underlying threads of red capsicum. To me, the flavours are predominantly of citrus, mid-ripened nectarines and some of the fragrant character of ripe melons. The palate is noticeably rounded with good weight, a firm structure, and a power derived from the relatively high alcohol (approx.13.5%). This is an excellent food wine, and it should be good drinking as a young wine within a few months, or as a developed style over many years.
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