Autumn Release 2005
2005 In 2004 the mild Spring conditions and no frosts were a welcome change to those suffered during the previous few years. Budburst arrived at the normal time but from then on the weather was cool and wet through to December, by which time the annualised rainfall was up to double the norm. What was probably the coldest December on record severely inhibited the success of flowering. As a consequence, it is likely that there will be no Gewurztraminer and significantly smaller volumes of the other varietals in the 2005 harvest. From January the weather reverted to normal and we can look forward to a satisfyingly high quality crop if these favourable conditions continue.
- Dry River Estate Gewurztraminer 2004
The wine is a light straw colour with a nose typical for this Gewurztraminer block. It is noticeably floral, redolent of oranges and ginger plus hints of Turkish Delight. Considerable mid-palate weight and a refined rich texture accompany the satisfying dry palate. The flavours are fresh mineral and watermelon, orange or mandarin zest, ginger and Indian chai. It is a moderately austere wine – even tight at this point in its development – but even in its youth it will work well when paired with strongly flavoured dishes. It should be drinking well between 3 & 7 years in a good cellar and I expect its development to go beyond this.
- Craighall Late Harvest Riesling 2004
This has a mid-green/gold colour with an initially reticent nose perfumed with lemon blossoms and honey that opens up to reveal apricots and toasted walnuts. The palate is long and elegant but concentrated, with a persistent, lush but fresh aftertaste with flavours of talc, apricots and white peach or passionfruit, limes and lacings of honey. In style and weight it can be likened to a fine Mosel auslese.
- Pinot Gris 2004
This wine is straw coloured with a noticeable green cast and possesses aromas of lemon flowers, apples, cherimoya and toasted nuts with a touch of spice. The palate is dry, with an obvious lushness which over-rides quite a firm structure that leads into flavours of white peach and peach kernel, pineapple nuances and citrus with a cleansing mineral finish. Although this is a wine which is readily drinkable now, it will only reveal its full potential with cellaring. My preference is to drink it from 4–7 years depending on how it develops, although recent vertical tastings of Dry River Pinot gris suggest it is likely to continue beyond this.
- Lovat Syrah 2003
This has a very dense colour – I am tempted to call it black rather than red wine. Nevertheless, the edge is a bright red, and the aromas and flavours are fresh and fruit-driven – distinctly primary at this early stage of development. The nose shows some Hessian and mealy characters, with sweet blackberries, tamarillo, soft white pepper, cardamom and the black tea smell of the fruit tannins. The palate is quite structured and tannic but it does not sacrifice elegance. The flavours are of Black Doris plums and plum kernels, black currants and raspberry coulis with an attractive ‘crystalline’/mineral finish. I expect this Syrah to be a very long term wine that will show significant development over ten years in a good cellar. Review in another 3–4 years.
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