Spring Release 2011
2011Tasting NotesSpring No frosts and an absence of damage to the new growth in spring 2010 was in welcome contrast to many of the previous years. Benign growing conditions in the early part of the season, excellent weather for flowering and reduced vigour through summer as the soils dried, provided an admirable leadup to harvest. As we approached picking, phenolic ripening (loss of herbal flavours) was slow but conditions were such that we were able to wait and there was no difficulty in picking Chardonnay, Pinot noir and Riesling at their optimum flavours. By mid-April our luck had changed and we were beset by pockets of rain and the risk of botrytis until the weather had dried out once again in May. Holding off picking until the flavours in the remaining crop were exactly right, brought no adverse consequences – largely due to meticulous viticulture and the cold temperatures – so overall we were very happy with all the fruit brought in and look forward to seeing some very interesting wines.
- Craighall Riesling 2011
Riesling is the the most delicate of the varieties that we harvest so it was fortunate that it could be taken in before the weather changed. This is a light straw coloured wine with ripe aromas which include crushed Kaffir lime leaves, fresh fig and soft spices. On the palate it appears firm and big in extract – almost weighty for a dry Riesling. The flavours are fresh rather than crisp and have a clean, lingering aftertaste. They form an interesting mixture including limes, citrus zest and nutmeg and the wine is likely to take some time to unfold. For me this is the variety which does particularly well with white fleshed fish, chicken and Japanese cuisine.
- Dry River Chardonnay 2010
The fruit was harvested in ideal weather and in perfect condition. A ferment with a total of 10 months in barrel before bottling has given us a wine which is a bright light straw colour touched with greenish hues and a nose initially showing citrus, white peach – possibly freesias – and supported with soft mealy notes. The palate follows on from the nose: sleek, crisp flavours of grapefruit and white peach with a long clean aftertaste – it is precise and elegant. I expect this to be a longer term Chardonnay, varietal in its youth and set to take on a mantle of richness and complexity from about 2013 on.
As with all our wines, white or red, at most stages of maturation it will benefit from decanting a few hours prior to drinking.
- Lovat Syrah 2009
The clone of a planted variety is generally considered to have greater effect on the quality of white wines than reds but Syrah is an exception. Our plantings are of what is thought to be the ancient Serrine clone and when one looks at the fruit near harvest, differences can be seen when compared to modern clones. This was originally introduced into NZ in the late 1800’s and the last few existing vines were rescued from oblivion by Dr Alan Limmer (then of Stonecroft wines) out of the old Te Kauwhata research station.
This wine displays a colour of deep carmine with a slightly purplish edge creating immediate expectations of richness. The nose is warm and inviting, slightly floral with the smell of black plum and white pepper, but presently tending more toward complex characters including sweet leather and dark chocolate. The palate is fresh, yet rich and rounded, with full soft tannins enveloping floral and black plum fruits along with flavours of black tea, leather and a long clean aftertaste. Overall a youthful wine that shows considerable promise. Evaluate from 4+ years – it should continue to improve for more than 10 if cellared well.
- Dry River Estate Viognier 2011
Viognier is the most difficult of our progeny because of its very low crop levels and the coaxing required in the vineyard to help it achieve acceptable ripeness. The wine has a similar persona to Gewurztraminer: up front, exotic and different – a wine for that lazy summer afternoon or with rich food. It is greenish gold in colour and has a distinctive nose of very ripe yellow peach, bananas and passionfruit (crushed almonds?) edging into exotic tropical fruits. It is fat, lush, long and lively with its flavours esconced somewhere between passion fruit, yellow peach and exotic tropical fruits. Conventional wisdom says these wines should be drunk young but we have not been making the variety long enough to have a clear idea. It is interesting now, but it would be worth leaving some to see how it develops.
- 2008 Pinot noir magnums
The standard 750mL bottles of this wine were released in autumn 2010. This is the same wine as released then but the larger format will impose a slower and slightly diverging evolution as time goes on. The density of colour, distinctive perfumed nose and supple spreading palate are as we saw in the first release and if you wish to try it in the first five years of its life I suggest decanting it at least half a day before its consumption. I would not be surprised to find it looking fresh and attractive well past 20 years if it has been cellared well in the interim.
*sorry folks, there is no en primeur release of Pinot noir this year because of the size of the vintage.
PREVIOUS VINTAGES
